8 Things to Do this Autumn to Love your Landscape Next Spring

Many homeowners believe that there is little yard maintenance to be done in the autumn. Au contraire, DIYers! The investments you make in your lawn and landscape now will help determine the health and appearance of your property next spring. Check out these eight things to do this autumn to love your landscape when the temperatures warm.

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Feed your lawn for its long winter's nap. Northern lawns benefit from autumn fertilization while the grass is still green but has slowed its growth, generally sometime around October, before the soil freezes. (Fertilizing after the ground freezes is not recommended.) In the mid-south, lawns benefit from late summer fertilization followed by a November application. Properly fertilized lawns will green up early next spring and need less fertilizer as temperatures warm. 

 

​​Winter weed woes. If you have a southern lawn, it will likely go dormant after the first couple of frosts. During the winter when it is brown and not growing, winter weeds can sprout and grow without competition. If they are not treated, a green cover of winter weeds will emerge in the spring, delaying recovery of the health and vibrancy of your lawn. Talk with a professional about an application to prevent weeds before they become a problem. ​​​  ​​​​

 

Bye-bye bare spots. Autumn is absolutely the best time to seed thin or bare areas of your northern lawn. Seedlings will root better and be hardier next summer than if you delay this pro​​cess until spring.​​

 

 

 

Don't leave leaves behind. Don't let tree leaves smother your lawn during the long winter months. Ideally you can mulch them into the lawn with the help of a mower as that recycles the nutrients and organic matter they contain. If you have too many leaves, bagging them with a lawn mower and using them as mulch on plant beds or adding them to a compost pile are good alternatives. Be careful not to allow leaves to enter storm drains or waterways.

 

Prune plants. Autumn and winter are good times to cut back overgrown woody plant material. Often called "hard pruning" or "rejuvenation pruning," this practice removes dead branches and those branches that are growing back into the plant's canopy or rubbing against other branches. This practice can also be used to reduce plant size and to create new stronger buds in hedges that are repeatedly sheared during the growing season.​​

 

Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. Before you put away your mowing equipment for the winter, prepare it for spring by running it out of fuel. Fuel left in equipment will spoil and may form gum on key engine parts that will prevent the equipment from starting. Rather than leaving gasoline in the gas can all winter, put the gas in your car and purchase fresh gas for your mower when you take it out next spring. Removing the spark plug and placing a tablespoon of oil in the head before replacing the plug is another good step before packing the mower up for winter. If your old mower is on its last leg, now might be a good time to check out sale prices at area stores.​​

 

Planting bulbs for spring. If you live in the north, crocus, daffodils, and tulips are the first flowers of spring. Prepare for their arrival by planting bulbs now so they will be conditioned by cold winter soils for flowering. These flowers are most dramatic when planted in masses. Color combinations are widely varied; however, don't be tempted to create a rainbow of colors from the bulbs. One or two strong colors make a powerful impact statement. ​​

 

Get professional help. Renew your lawn and landscape care contract. Although most lawn agreements renew automatically, some states require an annual renewal process. Many companies that are planning for next season may offer special pricing to continuing customers willing to recommit early. If you don't already work with a professional, it is a good time to research companies and select the right partner to help you love your outdoor living space.​​

A Seasonal Guide: Autumn Lawn and Landscape Care

Autumn is the forgotten season when it comes to caring for your lawn and landscape. Many people just focus on cleaning up leaves and don't realize that their yard still needs care in order to keep it in good health for the next spring. Here are some tips to keep your yard healthy.​

·        Pull weeds - Do it now and you'll have fewer weeds next seaso​​n.

·        Rake and remove the leaves in the yard to avoid damage to the grass so you can enjoy a healthier lawn next summer. Doing so also can protect water quality. In winter, freezing and thawing can cause leaves, dead grass plants, and other organic debris to release soluble forms of phosphate (and nitrates). If these chemicals run o​ff frozen ground during spring snow melt and early spring rains, they can end up in surface water. Consider composting the leaves.​​

·        Seed and fertilize – Autumn is the ideal time to give your lawn the TLC it needs after the heat and activity of summer and before the harsh winter months. Generally, cool-season grasses should be fertilized September through November and warm-season grasses should be fertilized a bit earlier.  Seed dead or bare spots and overseed the full lawn to get dense, plush grass, rich in color.

·        Keep your grass at 2 to 2½ inches tall throughout the autumn. If your grass gets much taller (more than 3 inches) it will mat, and this could lead to winter lawn disease problems such as snow mold. If you cut it shorter than 2 inches, you'll severely limit its ability to make and store food for growth in the spring and encourage weed growth.

·        Give trees and shrubs a deep watering​ after the leaves on the trees drop and just before turning the outside water off for the season.

·        Cut most perennials back close to the ground.

·        Shut off water lines to the outside. If you have an automatic irrigation system, avoid damage by having it blown out with compressed air before the water freezes in the pipes.​

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While not an exhaustive list, following these seasonal recommendations will help ensure the health of your yard. Your landscape professional can offer additional ideas an​d suggestions to make the most of your outdoor living space.   

January Lawn Tips

• I hope you all have had a very merry Christmas and happy new year. After a very mild and wet run up to Christmas, the frosty mornings are now back. Whilst it’s a pain scraping it off the car, the benefits mean that it will check any grass growth and also help control any soil based grubs or bugs.

• Those with fine lawns should wait until the frost has lifted before going on, as you can bruise the grass, leaving unsightly black footprints which can turn brown as the grass leaf dies.

• Leaf and debris collection should continue when conditions allow. If leaf litter is left, it will stop the light from getting to the grass underneath and, as the nights have drawn in, the grass will need all the light it can get.

• Please don’t forget about arranging to have your mower serviced. At the very least, wash it down and grease or oil the working parts; if it’s a petrol mower, please remove any remaining petrol, as this can go stale and won’t allow the mower to start later in the year when you come to use it. Organising the machine to be serviced by a reputable mechanic is far preferable.

February Lawn Tips

• After the rain and the storms come a mixed bag of cold and frosty weather. Hopefully, that will help dry everything up a little
• As the frosts return, those with fine lawns should wait until the frost has lifted before going on the lawn as you can bruise the grass, leaving unsightly black footprints which can turn brown as the grass leaf dies.
• The strong winds from the gales and storms have been blowing debris across the garden and probably damaged trees and plants as well. Please collect leaf litter and debris when conditions allow. If leaf litter is left, it will stop the light from getting to the grass underneath and, as the nights have drawn in, the grass will need all the light it can get.
• These excessively wet conditions have brought out the moss in certain areas of the country; moss control can be achieved with the use of Iron based feeds; these feeds can either be soluble or granular types. Look to apply these towards the end of the month with the aim of raking out the dead moss in time for the new spring growth
• If you haven’t had your mower serviced yet, please do so; time is running out. Before you know it will be spring and you may find yourself at the back of a very long queue.

April Lawn Tips

• After the weather’s equivalent of a mixed bag (mild, wet, cold and very cold!), things have turned the corner with it starting to get warmer.
• The heavy rains over the winter may have encouraged moss in the lawn, (some people have already rang saying they have more moss than grass), I would look at applying Iron to kill it. This can either be sprayed on or applied as a granular. Once it is dead, then it will need to be raked or scarified out.
• Following this with some fertiliser will help the grass fill the gaps caused by the removal of the moss.
• If there are any bare or thin patches in the lawn, then those areas will need to be reseeded. Please ensure that adequate irrigation is applied as a lack of water is the most common reason that a re-seed fails.
• If the lawn is looking hungry, make an application of a spring/summer fertiliser. I would recommend using slow release type as this, alongside regular mowing, allows the sward to thicken out.
• Aerate the lawn by lightly pricking the surface with a garden fork; this will improve oxygen levels and help rain and irrigation to penetrate the surface and more easily reach the grass roots.
• These aeration holes are also very useful for re-seeding any areas of the lawn that have either died off or have thinned
• Maintain neat lawn and path edges by trimming back excess grass growth with lawn edging trimmers on a regular basis.
• If you haven’t had your mower serviced yet, please do so; time is running out.

May Lawn Tips

• After lasts month’s ‘mini heat wave’, temperatures have dropped to normal or just below, so the cooler nights may check the growth spurt from the warm weather. But, as mowing has started in earnest, please have a read below:
• Before you start to mow, please ensure that your height of cut is set at between 15-20mm (higher if it is not a fine lawn) and the blade is sharp and clean. A nice clean and sharp blade will cut the grass cleanly, whilst a dirty blunt blade will tear at the grass, and also take a lot of power out of the machine in the process. Also, with the amount of grass going through the mower, you need as few obstructions as possible.
• Please don’t try and ‘push’ the mower though dense grass. Allow the mower to cut at a pace that it can cope with; it may take a little longer, but you will get a far better finish. (Allett supply a wheel kit for cutting longer grass)
• Trim lawn edges, as and when required, with edging shears to keep them looking neat and tidy.

• Look to pull up isolated weeds or carry out spot treatment of weeds with a proprietary lawn weed killer. Note: make sure the weed killer is suitable for grass, otherwise you will kill the grass as well as the weeds.
• If you planning to fertiliser your lawn, try using a slow release fertiliser that will help keep the lawn green without too much top growth. You probably have enough grass as it is.
• If you still have any moss, it can be controlled with the use of Iron Sulphate, either in a liquid or granular form. This will turn the moss black, and then it should start to die off not long after. Afterwards, lightly scarify to remove the dead moss and allow the grass the chance to recolonize the previously mossed areas.
• Please keep an eye on any seedlings and be prepared to water. There may be some rain about, but as soon as the summer sun makes an appearance, it will quickly dry things out.

June Lawn Tips

·        Some areas have had a mixed bag of weather, what with those horrendous storms which hit a lot of the Midlands area, whilst other parts were sweltering in the heat. With these hot temperatures, and all the rain, the lawns will really be growing well.

·        You need to keep on top of the mowing; at least weekly, but twice a week would be ideal. Not only will it keep the lawn under control, it will also help to thicken out the sward, making it less likely for weeds to invade. Height of cut should be anything between 15mm and 25mm, dependent upon how level your lawn is and the type of grass. Fine grasses, such as bents and fescues, can tolerate the lower heights of cut.

·        Make sure the mower blades are clean, and nice and sharp. Blunt or damaged blades can rip the grass plant, leaving it susceptible to disease.

·        If you haven’t fed the lawn yet, now’s a good time to put on a summer fertiliser; a slow release granular will be perfect. Give it a good watering if there’s no rain in the 24 hours after applying the fertiliser.

·        Continue to trim lawn edges as and when required, with edging shears to keep them looking neat and tidy

·        Continue to pull up isolated weeds or carry out spot treatment with a proprietary lawn weed killer Note: make sure the weed killer is suitable for grass; otherwise you will kill the grass as well as the weeds.

·        You can also seed any bare areas; rake the area beforehand, then add some top dressing to the seed to ensure there is soil/seed contact. Keep the area watered if there is a dry spell.

·        Don’t forget that we are now in June, and the perfect time to relax and enjoy your handiwork. Enjoy.

July Lawn Tips

• The present mix of sunshine and showers experienced by most of the UK is helping both the grass and weeds to grow well.
• Continue to pull up isolated weeds or carry out spot treatment with a proprietary lawn weedkiller.
• Aerate the lawn by lightly pricking the surface with a garden fork; this will improve oxygen levels and help rain and irrigation to penetrate the surface and more easily reach the grass roots.
• Make a small application of fertiliser on lawns that are thinning and looking unhealthy. A good indicator of when fertiliser is required is when the amount of grass clippings collected is dramatically reduced. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions for application.
• You should be cutting at least once a week at this time of year, and twice per week on fine ornamental lawns.
• Maintain neat lawn and path edges by trimming back excess grass growth with edge trimmers on a regular basis.
• Irrgation should be applied to any recently seeded or turfed areas as the any hot dry spell could easily kill of the plant before it has had a chance to establish.
• The lawn mower should now be at its summer height of cut – ornamental lawns 10 to 15mm; recreational lawns 20 to 30mm. Do not be tempted to reduce the height of cut, as you may scalp the lawn, resulting in unsightly bare patches.
• Many people now have wildflower areas; now is the time to mow these and leave the clippings in situ to dry for at least a week. Rake up the clippings once they have dried and set seed.

August Lawn Tips

·        Now that the heatwave seems to have passed (at least for now), this small period of wet weather is allowing conditions for any lawns that were suffering to bounce back.
You can use the present wetter weather to ‘wash in’ any outstanding fertiliser applications minimising any chance of scorch.

·        Continue to trim lawn edges and mow as and when required, different grass varieties will recover at different times giving the lawn an uneven look

·        Continue to pull up isolated weeds or carry out spot treatment with a proprietary lawn weed killer

Please Note: wait until the grass has recovered fully. If you spray a lawn that is already drought /heat stressed, you could kill it.

·        Check the mower blades are still sharp and that all moving parts are lubricated as per the manufacturer’s guidelines.

·        Mowing height should be between 15-20mm, any lower and you run the risk of scalping the lawn.

·        As the grass starts to grow again, Red Thread (a fungal disease that turns the grass a reddy/pink colour) may start to show itself in the lawn. This can either be fed out using fertilisers or by using a chemical control.

September Lawn Tips

·        September Lawn Tips
After a very warm and dry summer and due to that excessive dry weather, a lot of people’s lawns are only now starting to recover. On closer inspection you may find that the grass is still quite thin in the places where it is recoverin,g but there are areas where it still hasn’t.
I would advise a complete re-seed in the ‘dead’ areas and an over seed in the others. This will replace the grasses lost due to the drought and prevent those areas being taken over with either weed grasses such as Annual Meadow Grass, (Poa Annua), or with moss which will exploit the gaps in the surviving grass.
So, let’s start with –
• Scarification to remove any dead grass or thatch build-up (this is excess organic matter on the surface of the soil). This dead grass and thatch will act like a sponge, encouraging the proliferation of moss and reducing the need for the grass to develop a deep root base. This makes the grass plant less tolerant of any dry weather next year as the roots cannot find moisture in the soil beneath it. Thatch can also harbour turf diseases such Fusarium.
• Aerating the lawn with either solid or hollow tines. The alleviation of compaction in the surface of the lawn will allow the movement of both air and water though the top layer of the turf, helping prevent moss and encouraging root development within the lawn. When hollow tining, the cores will have to be removed, these can either be disposed of or recycled as a dressing for the spring or next autumn.
• Re-seeding the lawn both in areas where the grass is thin or patchy but also in the ‘dead’ areas as well. This will thicken up the sward as well adding newer more vigorous grasses to the turf sward, and squeezing out the weed grass and moss.
• Top dress the lawn with a soil/sand mix to cover the recently applied seed and to level any dips and hollows in the lawn. Once applied, use the back of a garden rake to level off the dressing. Please do not try to ‘bury’ the grass, always ensure that it is showing through the top dressing otherwise you can ‘suffocate’ the lawn and kill the grass beneath it.
• Fertilise the lawn with an autumn/winter fertiliser, these are usually low in Nitrogen but have a higher amount of Phosphate and Potash than summer feeds. Phosphate and Potash help with root development and strengthen the plant cell walls, therefore helping the turf to go into winter stronger and healthier. I would advise using a slow release fertiliser as this will slowly release nutrient into the lawn without you having to deal with a growth flush
• Raise the height of cut after renovations to 30-40mm. Any lower and you encourage the build-up of moss within the lawn. The less light that can get to the base of the sward the less moss spores that are able to germinate.
• Continue to trim lawn edges as and when required, with edging shears to keep them looking neat and tidy.Note-
As always at this time of year there is talk of heatwaves and Indian summers, and sometimes it happens. Please keep an eye on the forecasts before starting your renovations as any prolonged dry spells after renovations can have a detrimental effect – be prepared to irrigate.

October Lawn Tips

·        As September comes to an end, the lawns are starting to recover from the effects of the summer. For those who haven’t started their autumn renovations, October is really the last month that you can; once the weather turns cold, it will be too late. Emphasis should be on the type of renovations required and the materials needed. The work you do this autumn will have positive effect on the look of your lawn next spring/summer. These renovations can be:
· Scarification is necessary as thatch (the build-up of excess organic matter on the surface of the soil) will hold water on the surface like a sponge, encouraging the proliferation of moss and reducing the need for the grass to develop a deep root base. This makes the grass plant less tolerant of dry weather as the roots cannot find moisture. Thatch can also harbour turf diseases such Fusarium.
· Aerating the lawn with either solid or hollow tines. The alleviation of compaction in the surface of the lawn will allow the movement of both air and water though the top layer of the turf. This helps with drainage and therefore helping prevent moss, and also encourages root development within the lawn. When hollow tining, the cores will have to be removed; these can either be disposed of or recycled as a dressing for the spring or next autumn.
· Reseeding the lawn both in areas where the grass is thin or patchy, especially after this summer’s heatwave, but also as a way of adding newer more vigorous grasses to the turf sward.
· Top dressing the lawn with a soil/sand mix can be used to cover the recently applied seed and to remove dips and hollows from the lawn. Once applied, use the back of a garden rake to level off the dressing. Do not bury the grass, always ensure that it is showing through the top dressing otherwise you can ‘suffocate’ the lawn and kill the grass beneath it.
· Raise the height of cut after renovations to 30-40mm; any lower and you encourage the build-up of moss within the lawn. The less light that can get to base of the sward the less moss spores that are able to germinate.
· Fertilise the lawn with an autumn, winter fertiliser; these are usually low in Nitrogen but have a higher amount of Phosphate and Potash than summer feeds. These two last nutrients help with root development and strengthen the plant’s cell walls, therefore allowing the turf to go into winter with stronger and healthier plants.
· This is also the time that trees shed their leaves, so leaf collection should be done at regular intervals. If leaf litter is left, it will stop the light from getting to the grass underneath and as the nights draw in, the grass will need all the light it can get.
· Continue to trim lawn edges as and when required, with edging shears to keep them looking neat and tidy.

November Lawn Tips

• With temperatures fluctuating from mild to frosty, we seem to have your typical late autumn temperatures. Though it has been quite a dry October (in the South at least), I imagine that will change this month coming and hopefully that will refill the aquifers in the ground.
• Your autumn renovations should now have been completed and the lawn can be left to regenerate at its own pace.
• If you need to fertilise the lawn, please use an autumn/winter fertiliser; these are usually low in Nitrogen but have a higher amount of Phosphate and Potash than summer feeds. These two last nutrients help with root development and strengthen the plants cell walls therefore allowing the turf to go into winter with stronger and healthier plants. N.B a slow release fertiliser would be better, as this will trickle nutrients into the ground over the 3 months or so of its life rather than a sudden flush of nutrients and growth could encourage lawn diseases such as Fusarium.
• Also, fertilisers with high iron content can also be used to harden the grass and help prevent moss. N.B Please ensure when using these types of fertilisers that any granules which come into contact with stone or light paving should be brushed off as soon as possible, as the iron can stain, leaving it covered with pink/orange dots.
• Please raise your mower’s height of cut so it is between 30-40mm; any lower and you encourage the build-up of moss within the lawn. The less light that can get to base of the sward the less moss spores that are able to germinate.
• Continue to trim lawn edges if you already haven’t done so, with edging shears to keep them looking neat and tidy.
• Also prune back any herbaceous plants that are overhanging the lawn, or may do so once the growing season starts again in the New Year. These obscure the light to the lawn creating unsightly bald patches and can encourage moss or weeds.
• Please don’t stop collecting the leaf drop; not only is it unsightly, but if this is left then it will smother the grass leaving dead patches in the lawns that moss will colonise

Please Note: Heavy rains in winter can cause localised flooding in certain areas; the receding waters can leave sediment; this can be potentially hazardous waste from flooded sewers or industry. Wear protective gloves, eye protection and a dust mask as a minimum level of protective clothing when you come into contact with the sediment. Seek advice from your local authority or the Environment Agency for further guidance.

December Lawn Tips

•After a rather mild and dry November, the colder and wetter weather is only now making an appearance. Whilst we might not like the rain, if you were to go down to a certain depth in the soil profile, you would find that it is still quite dry; as a result, any rain is welcome.
• If you can aerate the lawn, please do, it will help move the water though the soil profile to where it’s needed.
• With regard to frost, those with fine lawns should wait until the frost has lifted before going onto the surface, as you can bruise the grass, leaving unsightly black footprints which can turn brown as the grass leaf dies. To improve the amount of light getting to the lawn, please ensure that you rake up all the leaves, otherwise they will block out the light leaving bare patches that are an invitation to either weeds or moss
• The leaf litter will also encourage worms to the surface to feed on the dead leaves. Whilst this can aid the biological health of the lawn, it will lead to large amounts of worm casts on the surface which are not only unsightly but can provide nice little seed beds for weeds in the spring.
• If you haven’t fed your lawn with an Autumn/Winter fertiliser, I would do so soon. These fertilisers are usually low in Nitrogen but have a higher amount of Phosphate and Potash than summer feeds. These two last nutrients help with root development and strengthen the plants cell walls, therefore allowing the turf to go through winter with stronger and healthier plants.
N.B a slow release fertiliser would be better, as this will trickle nutrients into the ground over the 3 months or so of its life rather than a sudden flush of nutrients and growth could encourage lawn diseases such as Fusarium.
• Fertilisers with high iron content can also be used to harden the grass and help prevent moss. N.B Please ensure when using these types of fertilisers that any granules left on the stone or light paving should be brushed off as soon as possible as the iron can stain, leaving it covered with pink/orange dots.
• Also, finish pruning back any herbaceous plants that are overhanging the lawn or may do so once the growing season starts again in the New year. These obscure the light to the lawn creating unsightly bald patches and can encourage moss or weeds.
• At this time of year, the mower has usually been put back in the shed and forgotten about – please don’t. At the very least wash it down and grease or oil the working parts. If it’s a petrol mower, please remove any remaining petrol, as this can go stale and could prevent the mower from starting when you next come to use it. Though organising the machine to be serviced by a reputable mechanic is far preferable.
• Finally, I’d like to wish you all a Happy Christmas and prosperous New Year

GARDENING JOBS FOR THE MONTH

December is a quiet time in the garden, many of the plants are waiting for the first warmth of spring to emerge. Nevertheless, there are still plenty of jobs that you can be getting on with, particularly preparing for spring 2019.

If you haven’t already, you should be protecting your plants through December and January from the cold snaps. Move any potted plants to a sheltered area, such as a greenhouse or conservatory. Alternatively, group potted plants together close to a wall of your house, garage or shed, this way they will be less exposed to strong winds and the colder weather.

It is a good idea to clear fallen leaves from driveways and pathways using a leaf blower. Cobra’s BV65-24v Cordless Blower is the perfect tool for the job; lightweight, compact and powerful. Once it rains, leaves that have fallen on the ground quickly begin to rot and become slippery. If left, a winter frost will make them stick to the ground, turn hard and icy. The Cordless Blower by Cobra allows you to quickly and easily clear your garden of leaves, making it safer and looking much tidier!

Now is the best time to prune fruit trees, as the leaves will have fallen off and the plant itself is dormant. If you have neglected to prune your trees for a while don’t despair, it can be made simply with Cobra’s P20E Electric Powered Pole Pruner – designed specifically to reach awkward heights and angles to prune effectively. With an extendable bar than can reach up to 2.7 metres, you can prune longer branches with ease.

Start by removing dying, dead, diseased, damaged or weak branches. Remove older branches by cutting back to the origin, and don’t be afraid to cut any branches back that have grown too high, too wide or are causing congestion at the centre of the tree.

Cobra’s Pole Pruner is also ideal for cutting firewood! At this time of year, who is going to say no to a cosy, log-burning fire?

GARDENING FOR ALL SEASONS

The lawn might have stopped growing at this time of year, but there are still plenty of tasks you can do in the garden. We do have the UK’s largest selection of lawnmowers available, but did you know we also have lots of tools for autumn and winter jobs too?

Wood-burning fireplaces are once again in vogue, and what better way to prepare for the cold winter than by cutting your own firewood?

Our range of chainsaws will make short work of cutting through large tree branches and the Cordless Chainsaw will run for up to 50 minutes on a 90 minute charge.

Autumn is a good time to have a clear out of beds and borders if they have been allowed to grow out of hand for some time. Our Quiet Shredder is great for shredding garden waste up to 40mm in diameter, and comes with a practical plunger for increased throughput on heavier loads. Naturally, we think it’s great but don’t just take our word for it. Kitchen Garden magazine recently recognised it as their Best Buy too!  http://www.kitchengarden.co.uk/-Kitchen-Garden-Best-Buy-and-Top-Picks-45f2ZKC

Likewise, you can prune any trees that have become unruly. To cut branches that are normally out of reach, the Pole Pruner can extend to up to 2.7 metres, so you can tame overgrown trees or collect extra firewood before winter sets in.

Alternatively, the Cobra log splitter is designed exactly for this task. The LS520H, with its 1500w powerful motor and 5.5 tonnes of splitting force, can split logs up to 25cm in diameter in to four with just one stroke. We even has an extensive range of carts and trailers too, to help you transport the logs once cut!

Finally, to give your garden an instant neat and tidy look, clear up fallen autumn leaves from the lawn, driveway or patio. Our Electric and Petrol Blower Vacs collect nuisance leaves in a handy collection bag for easy disposal. 

How to leave stripes on a lawn

Stripes not only look smart, they can also create an illusion of a longer, greener lawn – it’s no wonder that many of us desire the ‘formal’ look for our gardens. The effect is not difficult to attain but does require a little planning and some specific equipment.

What creates the stripes on a lawn?

Stripes are simply created by the two-tone contrasting colours of grass laid flat in one direction and again in the opposite direction. When the grass is bent away from you, it appears lighter in colour as light reflects off the fatter part of the grass plant. Pushed towards you, the grass looks darker.

What equipment do I need?

Firstly, you need to consider which type of lawnmower to use. The mower you choose should have a fixed roller mounted to the body machine that flattens the grass.

Walk-behind mowers – Cylinder or ‘reel’ mowers fitted with a roller can produce an excellent striped finish. These mowers work by using a spinning cylindrical blade at the front of the mower to slice the grass which is then flattened by a trailing roller. Cylinder mowers will produce a high-quality cut but they tend to be expensive and may require regular blade sharpening and maintenance. Hover mowers, which do not make contact with the ground, and mulching rotary mowers will not, by themselves, create the desired effect.

Ride-on mowers – Most ride-on mowers are poor at striping and either require a second pass with a heavy roller or an aftermarket ‘striping kit’ to achieve the effect. However, there are exceptions. Countax garden tractors use collectors with a powered ‘sweeping’ system. These collectors have integrated rollers and will stripe as they cut.

How do I use my mower to achieve stripes?

A little bit of planning goes a long way when it comes to lawn striping. The illustration opposite shows a simple pattern that can be used, even by ride-on mower owners, to stripe the lawn and leave a neat and tidy border. Not only does this system produce uniform stripes, it is also an efficient way to mow a rectangular shaped lawn.

What about obstacles such as trees?

It is possible to continue the stripe through trees and ornaments. On your first pass approaching the obstacle, mow around the object into the path of the uncut grass. On your second pass, stripe over the marks you have just left. This manoeuvre takes some practice, but once mastered, it can give the impression that your lawn stripes go straight through any garden obstacle.